It is a good idea to rent a car when visiting Canada. Other modes of transportation will get you around the cities and from one rural town to another, but once you arrive in a remote country area, a car is the best way of exploring. Tours of regions such as Quebec’s wild Gaspé Peninsula, or British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley are best made by car. Several aspects of Canadian life reflect the fact that this is a driver’s country: there is an excellent, well-maintained highway network, and many places have huge out-of-town malls. However, city-center traffic congestion means that visitors to the major cities of Toronto, Vancouver, Montreal, and Ottawa may find that public transportation is quicker and cheaper than driving.
Arriving by car
Many people drive to Canada from the US. The border here is the longest in the world. There are 13 major crossing points, the two busiest being from Detroit to Windsor and at Niagara Falls. Most of the highways entering Canada connect to the Trans- Canada Highway, which is the longest highway through the country, running for some 5,000 km (8,045 miles) from Victoria, BC, to St. John’s in Newfoundland. Customs control ask that visitors declare their citizenship, their place of residence, and proposed length of stay. You may be asked to show your passport and visa. It is a good idea to fill up with less expensive fuel on the US side. It is also possible to enter the country from the Alaska side by the famed Alaska Highway, which crosses the Yukon and ends in British Columbia at Dawson City.
Driver’s licenses
An up-to-date driver’s license from your own country usually entitles you to drive in Canada for up to three months. There are some provincial variations: in British Columbia, Quebec, and New Brunswick your license will be valid for up to six months, in Prince Edward Island four months, and in the Yukon only one month. It is advisable to carry an International Driving Permit (IDP) with your license in case of problems with traffic officials or the police.
Insurance
Whether driving a rental or your own car you will need proof of insurance coverage, which is compulsory in Canada. If you are using your own car it is advisable to check whether your insurance is valid in Canada, as this may save money. The minimum liability cover is Can $200,000, except in Quebec, where it starts at Can $50,000. Most rental companies offer collision damage waiver and personal accident insurance for an additional charge; it is a good idea to have both. If you are driving a private car that is not registered in your own name, you will need to carry a letter from the owner that authorizes your use of the vehicle. For a rental vehicle you must carry the company’s official documentation for the same reason. Arranging summer rentals and insurance in advance is recommended.
Car rental
Rental cars are available just about everywhere in Canada. Most major rental car dealers such as Hertz, Avis, and Tilden, have offices at airports and in towns and cities across the country. Among the less expensive options are booking a fly-drive package from home, or there may be discounts if you rent your car in advance. The cost varies greatly depending on the season, type of vehicle, and length of rental. Ask about hidden costs such as drop-off charges, provincial sales tax, and the Goods and Services Tax (GST). When picking up your car you may be asked to show your passport and return airline ticket. The minimum age for renting a car is usually 25 or, in some cases, 21. You will need a credit card for the deposit as it is all but impossible to rent a car in Canada without one. Children under 18 kg (40 lbs) require a child seat fixed in place with a seat belt. Most companies will arrange for one with a little notice. The biggest rental companies offer a wide choice of vehicles, ranging from two-door economy cars to four-door luxury models. Most cars come with a radio and air-conditioning. Bear in mind that nearly all rental cars in Canada have automatic transmission. Manual models are unusual, although cars with specially adapted hand controls for disabled drivers are available from some of the larger companies. RVs (Recreational Vehicles) or camper vans can also be rented, but they are more expensive. They should be booked well in advance if you intend to travel in summer.
Fuel and service stations
Fuel prices are slightly higher than in the US and half the price you pay in the UK, especially in cities and large towns, although rural areas often charge more. Unleaded gas and diesel only are available in Canada. Rental companies generally provide a full tank on departure, and give you the choice of paying for the fuel in advance or on return. Service stations are often self-service, which can be a problem if you need a mechanic. In major cities some stations are open for 24 hours, but in rural areas they often close at 6pm and are few and far between, especially in northerly regions. It is a good idea to fill up before setting off. Credit cards and traveler’s checks are widely accepted.
Rules of the road
Canada’s Highway system is well maintained and has mostly two-lane all-weather roads. They are all clearly numbered and signed. Most highway signs are in English, and some bilingual, except for those in Quebec where they are only in French. A good road map is essential and can be obtained from any auto club such as the Canadian Automobile Association (CAA), which is affiliated with other similar clubs in the world. It is worth checking the rules of the road with them as there are numerous small provincial variations. In Canada you drive on the right. You can turn right on a red light everywhere, except in Quebec. The speed limits are posted in kilometers-per-hour (km/h) and range from 30–40 km/h (18–30 mph) in urban areas to 80–100 km/h (50–60 mph) on highways. On multi-lane highways you pass on the left for safety. Some provinces require cars to keep their headlights on for extended periods after dawn and before sunset, for safety reasons. Seat belts are compulsory for both drivers and passengers. Driving in the north involves special procedures because most of the roads are extremely hazardous due to ice, and are passable only during the summer months.
Winter driving and safety
Canadian winters are harsh, and you should always check road conditions and weather forecasts before setting out on trips. Drifting snow and black ice are frequent hazards in winter or in northern regions. When driving in remote areas, make sure you have a full gas tank, and carry blankets, some sand, a shovel, and emergency food, such as chocolate bars, in case you get stuck. Jumper cables are also useful because extreme cold can drain a car battery quickly. Studded tires are useful in winter conditions and are permitted in most provinces. Check with local tourist offices. During the summer months animals such as bears and moose can be a hazard, especially in parts of British Columbia. They can suddenly appear on roads when they rush out of the woods to escape the blackflies during spring and summer. Watch for road signs, and take extra care when you see deer or moose road signs as these indicate an area where animals are most likely to appear suddenly.
Buses are the least expensive way to get around Canada. The majority of bus routes west of Toronto are run by Greyhound Canada, including the epic trip along the Trans-Canada Highway (Hwy 1) between Toronto and Vancouver. East of Toronto there are several smaller companies that cover most areas. Although a long bus trip can mean one or more nights spent sitting upright, the buses are generally clean and comfortable, and offer plenty of rest stops. The network is also reliable and efficient with buses usually arriving on time. In more remote regions, check timetables in advance as there may be no service or only one bus a week.
Long-distance buses
Long-distance buses provide a cheaper and often faster option than the railroad. The main operator, Greyhound Canada, carries more than two million passengers each year to most of the towns and cities across the country. Although Greyhound lines operate in the west and center of the country, many routes are linked to bus lines in the east, and in the United States. West of Vancouver, Greyhound links up with Pacific and Maverick Coach Lines, east of Ottawa, with Voyageur Colonial, Orleans Express, and Acadian SMP. Greyhound’s express services offer a faster, highway-based service on buses that have more leg room, movies, music, and snacks. Although smoking is prohibited, most long-haul buses stop every three to four hours so that travelers can leave the bus for a rest break. Rest breaks or driver changes take place at both bus and service stations, where you will find a variety of facilities ranging from restaurants and cafés to snack vending machines. All the buses are air-conditioned and have washrooms. Buses also offer passengers the advantage of picking up and arriving in convenient downtown areas.
Discounts and passes
There is a variety of discounted bus passes available to visitors. Children under five usually travel free, and travelers over 65 are entitled to discounts on both return tickets and pass deals. Fares are also cheaper if you book in advance or travel during the off-peak season, from January to June or from October to December. The Greyhound Canada Pass offers unlimited travel on both Greyhound and many other lines, such as those running eastward between Ontario and Quebec or across Saskatchewan, for a range of time periods: 7, 10, 15, 21, 30, 45, and 60 days. Prices range from approximately Can $289 for 7 days to Can $640 for 60. The Canada Coach Pass Plus is similar, with the bonus of including travel across the country to Montreal, Quebec City, Halifax, St. John, and Charlottetown, as well as to New York City in the US. Some pass deals booked overseas and through organizations such as Hostelling International include accommodation in more than 80 hostels from coast to coast; an example is the Go Canada Budget Travel Pass. This pass can also be used to travel on VIA Rail services between Toronto, Ottawa, and Montreal. Rout-Passes offer access to some 35 intercity bus companies in Ontario and Quebec from mid-April to mid-November. Passengers do not need to decide on their itinerary in advance, and reservations are not necessary. There is a widerange of Rout-Passes to choose from, and some include accommodation vouchers. The 16-day Rout-Pass can be bought only by members of the International Hostelling Association.
Bus stations and reservations
Buses from different carriers all operate from the same stations, making it easy to connect with other bus lines and municipal transit services. Reservations are not usually needed since buses are filled on a firstcome, first-served basis. Passengers are advised to be there at least an hour ahead of departure time, leaving plenty of time to buy tickets and check their luggage. Do not panic if the bus fills up; it will generally be replaced with another one right away. Buying tickets in advance does not guarantee you a seat, and you will still have to line up to board the bus. Most bus stations have a small restaurant or café where reasonably priced snacks and meals can be purchased. On long-distance journeys it is a good idea to take some food with you, otherwise you will have to rely on the sometimes over-priced, unappealing food available in service stations. At the larger stations it is possible to rent luggage lockers, leaving you free to explore unencumbered by suitcases. In the major cities such as Toronto, you have the choice of boarding in the suburbs or in the city center. Choose the city center since the bus may be full by the time it reaches outlying districts. Always ask if there is an express or direct service to your destination; as some trips involve countless stops en route and can seem very long. A small pillow or traveling cushion, a sweater (to counter the sometimes fierce air-conditioning), and a good book or magazine can often help to make a long trip more comfortable.
Bus tours
There are several tour companies that offer package deals on a variety of trips. An extensive range of tours is available, from city sightseeing and day trips to particular attractions, to expensive luxury, multi-day tours including guides, meals, and accommodations. There are specialized tours that focus on such activities as glacier hikes, white-water rafting, and horseback riding. A typical ten-day tour of the Rockies may take in everything from a cruise to Victoria, a hike in Banff, and a picnic on Lake Louise, to a trip to the Columbia Icefield, or a look at the history of gold rush country in the Cariboo region. Most companies will send you detailed itineraries in advance, and it is a good idea to make sure that there are no hidden extras such as tips, sales taxes, and entry fees, as these are often included in the price of the package. Some of the most beautiful scenery can also be seen on regular Greyhound routes, such as those in the Rockies.
The Canadian rail network is run by the governmentowned VIA Rail. The service has been significantly reduced since the late 1980s when many cross-country services, along with other lines, were cut. VIA Rail still provides a service on the famed 1950s Canadian, a beautifully restored train that travels across the country between Toronto and Vancouver, passing through stunning Rockies’ scenery between Jasper and Kamloops. Increasingly, Canadians fly long distances or use their cars to cover most of the shorter hauls. For visitors, traveling by train remains a wonderful way to see large parts of Canada (especially in those trains that have glass-domed observation cars). Smaller commuter networks around the major cities are also useful for visitors who wish to explore an area in detail.
The Canadian rail network
Via rail CANADA INC. operates Canada’s national passenger rail service. Despite the closing of several lines there are still 400 trains every week, which cover some 13,000 km (8,000 miles) on major routes between Vancouver and Toronto, traveling on to Montreal, Quebec, and Halifax. It is possible to cross the country by train – a trip that takes five days – by connecting up with these lines. The longest continuous route remains the Vancouver–Toronto trip on board the stylish and luxurious 1950s Canadian, with its observation and dining cars. Places with no road link, such as the town of Churchill in northern Manitoba, rely on the railroad. The line between Winnipeg and Churchill is mostly used by visitors in October, heading north to see the polar bears. VIA Rail operates both longhaul trains in eastern and western Canada, as well as intercity trains in the populous Ontario Corridor, from Quebec City to Windsor, passing through Kingston, Montreal, Niagara Falls, Ottawa, and Toronto. This is a fast service that offers snacks and drinks on board most trains. It is easy to travel onward to the United States, as VIA connects with the American rail network, Amtrak, at both Montreal and Vancouver. VIA Rail and Amtrak jointly run the Toronto–New York line through Niagara Falls, and Toronto–Chicago trains through Sarnia/Port Huron. The VIA station in Windsor is only a few kilometers from the Amtrak station in Detroit.
Smaller networks
Visitors should also be aware that VIA is not the only passenger rail service in Canada. The larger cities all have useful local commuter lines. Vancouver has BC Rail and the West Coast Express to Prince Rupert, while Toronto’s Go Transit covers the city’s outlying suburbs as far as Milton, Bradford, Richmond Hill, and Stouffville, and Montreal has AMT.
Specialty trips
There are several linesthat offer visitors the chance to enjoy Canada’s best scenery in comfortable, often luxurious trains. Among the best trips is the Algoma Central Railway in Ontario, which runs from Sault Ste. Marie to Hearst and has an excursion train from Sault Ste. Marie to the Agawa Canyon through spectacular landscapes from early June to October. There is a Snow Train excursion on weekends from late December to early March, also from Sault Ste. Marie. Ontario Northland Railway operates both freight and passenger services on its main line from North Bay to Moosonee. The Polar Bear Express is a summer excursion to Moosonee, which provides a close-up look at the northern wilderness. The passenger service continues south of North Bay to Toronto. The most spectacular train ride in Canada is probably in British Columbia, where, from mid-May until early October, Rocky Mountaineer Railtours runs two-day excursions from Vancouver to Calgary via Banff or Jasper. The Rocky Mountaineer follows the original route of the Canadian Pacific Railroad. These trips operate entirely in daylight, and the package includes a night in Kamloops plus meals. There is also a dome car for viewing the stunning scenery that lies around every bend. For a longer trip, visitors may want to take the six-day/five-night Golden/Crowsnest Tour, run by Royal Canadian Pacific Luxury Rail Tours. The tour takes guests from Calgary, across the expansive prairie of Lethbridge, and on to Fort MacLeod, before entering the Rockies via the Crowsnest Pass. Guests can also learn about the history of the Canadian west from the area’s most experienced naturalists and historians.
Travel classes
On long-distance routes there are two main classes of travel available, Economy and a variety of Sleeper classes, known as VIA 1. Economy Class offers comfortable, reclining seats in cars with wide aisles and large windows, as well as blankets and pillows for overnight trips. Passengers in Economy class also generally have access to one of the onboard snack bars or restaurants. Sleeper classes offer a range of options from double- and single-berth bunks to double bedrooms, which convert to luxurious sitting rooms by day. VIA services in Western Canada such as the Canadian, offer the choice of “Silver & Blue” first-class cars that have access to a private observation car, as well as plush dining cars.
Tickets and bookings
Reservations for FOR rail travel can be made through travel agents or direct through VIA Rail. There are a variety of discounts available on both economy and sleeper classes if you book round-trip tickets or in advance. Reductions on Ontario corridor lines are available if you book five days in advance (on most other routes you need to reserve tickets seven days in advance.) There are also discounts for bookings made for travel during the off-peak period between October and December, and from January until the end of May. The CANRAILPASS gives you 12 days of unlimited travel in economy class during a 30-day period. Just show your CANRAILPASS each time you obtain a ticket. The card is valid on all VIA Rail routes, and you can make as many stops as you like during your trip. Up to three extra days’ travel can be added, which can be bought in advance or at any time during the 30-day validity period. It is a good idea to reserve seats in advance during the summer as there are a limited number for pass holders. Throughout the VIA system, travelers over 60 are entitled to an additional ten percent reduction on fares.
SINCE THE completion of the Confederation Bridge in 1997, Prince Edward Island has become easily accessible by bus and car. Travelers still use the ferry service, which runs from New Glasgow, Nova Scotia between May and November. There is a shuttle bus service from Halifax that travels to the island by ferry. The island’s public transportation system is limited to a bus service in Charlottetown run by Trius Tours; this operates all year round. However, touring by car is most popular, and it is a good idea to reserve a car during the busiest months of July and August. Several companies offer organized bus, walking, and cycling tours.
The compact city of Halifax is best explored on foot or bicycle, which can be hired for a half or full day. Driving around is difficult: parking is hard to come by and expensive. To reach outlying districts there is the Halifax Metro Transit bus system. Fares are cheap, with a flat fare of Can $2 charged downtown. It is also possible to purchase budget books of 20 tickets for Can $32. In the city from Monday to Saturday during the summer season, a free bus service called “Fred” circles the downtown area about every 20 minutes.
The charming narrow streets of the old city are best seen on foot, especially since most of the historic sights are located within a small area of the walled city. If you need to travel farther to see one of the more distant sights such as the Musee du Quebec, the bus system is frequent and reliable. Fares are cheaper if you buy a ticket before boarding and are on sale at several outlets in grocery stores costing Can $2.50 per person. There are also oneday passes for Can $5.65. The bus station is in the Lower Town on Boulevard Charest Est. Most of the main routes stop centrally on the Place d’Youville in the Old Town. Taxi stands are located in front of the major hotels or outside city hall. Horse-drawn carriages or caleches may be hired for a gentle trot around the Old Town, but expect to pay Can $50 for 40 minutes.
Many of ’s attractions are within a 20-minute walk of one another in the downtown area, centered on the crossroads of Portage and Main Streets. Winnipeg City Transit operates an efficient bus system, which is also ideal for reaching farther-placed sights. There is a flat fare of Can $1.85, or you can purchase a book of 10 tickets for Can $18.00 from the Transit Service Centre based in the underground concourse at Portage and Main. (A transfer, valid for an hour, is available from the driver if you are changing buses.) The center is open weekdays between 8:30 am and 4:30 pm, and offers detailed information and a free route map of the city. There are also several pleasant bicycle paths that run through the city as well as to outlying districts.
Calgary transit operates buses and a light-rail transit system known as the C-Train. For a flat fare of Can $2.00 you can transfer to either using the same ticket, although day passes for around Can $5.60 are good value for visitors hoping to see several sights in one day. The CTrain travels north to the University and airport, and south to Macleod Trail. It is free in the downtown section between 10th Street and City Hall (buses are not). Maps are available from the Calgary Transit offices, where you can also buy tickets. C-Train tickets can be bought from machines located on the platforms. If you wish to travel mostly within the city center, walking and public transportation are your best options. However, the city’s blocks are long, (Calgary is Canada’s second largest city by area) and any trip to the outskirts and beyond requires a car. There are several rental companies, including all the major outlets, and charges are around Can $50 per day, although weekend rates are much cheaper. Cabs are expensive here and cannot be hailed on the street, but they can be picked up at hotels or ordered by telephone.
Fortunately for visitors, many of the capital city’s major tourist attractions are within walking distance of Parliament Hill. Ottawa’s sidewalks are both wide and clean, and you can do most of your sightseeing on foot, using public transportation to cover the longer distances. The region of Ottawa-Carlton operates OC Transpo, a 130- route bus network. Fares are among the most expensive in Canada, with a two-tier system that charges more for traveling during rush hour, Can $2.60 per ticket. You need the exact fare unless you buy tickets in advance. These are available at newsstands and corner stores. If you need to change buses, ask for a transfer, which can be used for up to an hour. It is possible to get a transfer for use on the separate Hull bus system across the Ottawa River, although you may have to pay a little more. All routes meet downtown at the Rideau Centre, and the stops are colorcoded according to the route. If you are using a car there are several reasonably priced municipal car lots – look for a green ‘P’ sign. Taxis can be booked by phone or hailed at stands outside major hotels. Bicycles are a good way to explore a city that has some 150 km (93 miles) of scenic paths. The Rideau Canal, that crosses the city from north to south, is bordered by delightful walking and bike paths.
Vancouver’s well-organized network of light rail (called SkyTrain), bus, and ferry services is run by BC Transit. An inexpensive Transit Guide is available from newsstands and information centers. It includes a map of the city showing all routes. Driving is not the best way to see the city as congestion is heavy, and you are unlikely to find a spot to park. There is a park-andride system, where commuters can leave their cars at certain points around the city center.
The SkyTrain is a light rail system of driverless trains that connects downtown Vancouver with the suburbs of Burnaby, New Westminster, and Surrey. It travels partially beneath ground and partially overground on a raised track. The main terminal is at Waterfront Station at the bottom of Seymour Street. An alternative to the SkyTrain is to use the city’s downtown bus routes. These are worth riding as they offer delightful tours past the city’s top attractions, although it is advisable to avoid rush hour traffic. Bus services end around midnight, but there is a scaled down “Night Owl” service. One of the best ways to get around Vancouver is by water. The SeaBus is a 400-seat Catamaran that shuttles between Lonsdale Quay in North Vancouver and the downtown terminal at Waterfront Station. The trip takes around 15 minutes and includes wonderful views of the mountains and Vancouver skyline. Aquabus Ferries connect stations on False Creek, Granville Island, Stamp’s Landing, and theHornby Street Dock. If you want to take a cab it is best to call one of the main companies such as Black Top or Yellow Cab, as hailing a taxi in the streets is rarely successful. However, Vancouver is a great city for cyclists, with plenty of bike paths, including the 10 km (6 mile) road around Stanley Park. There is a park-and-ride service for bikes here, similar to the one elsewhere for cars. Fares are the same for bus, SkyTrain, and SeaBus in the Vancouver area, but the price varies according to time of day and the distance you travel. Adult fares are cheaper after 6:30pm, and all day Saturday, Sunday, and holidays. There are three zones in the city, and the price of the fare depends on how many zones you cross. The off-peak adult fare in zone one is Can $2.25.
There are a wide variety of discounts available: a FareSaver book of 10 tickets or a day pass are good value. Children under 4 ride free, and those between the ages of 5 and 13 pay less (as do students with a valid GoCard), and seniors over 65 also get concessions. A transfer ticket is free and lasts for 90 minutes of travel.
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